Home sweet home

I honestly did not even care that there was snow on the ground when we landed in blustery Madrid Tuesday night. We were both so excited to be going back to something totally familiar— the place where we know the language, where we have called home for over four months now. Flannery and I got in a little late to Toledo, so we spent that first night in the Fund. It was dark and quiet and I kept thinking that I would see the ghosts of our friends that were here before... it really is strange being here without them. I do not really know how to do Europe without those people who have been my friends and family for the past months. 

The next day we finally met up with all of the new kids and I could not help but think of our first day in Spain also, way back in September. Jet-lagged, confused, hungry and homesick. It's a great group, to be sure. What's weird is that there are now like 10 guys instead of 3. Later that day, Flannery and I both got moved into our new host families' houses. Oh. My. Goodness. I definitely hit the jackpot on this one. My family is absolutely great. They have three kids, Natalia, Alvaro and Ricky, ages 19, 16 and 13 respectively. My madre, Janni, is from Puerto Rico and her husband is Tito. They are SO nice and so warm. Their house is in the old part of the city, right near the main plaza and like 5 minutes from school. My little room is so charming. Bigger than my room at home AND I have my own bathroom. This semester is seriously looking up. 

Over the past few days, I have felt so much more comfortable with Spanish for some reason. I feel like I can express myself so much easier, which contrasts completely with how I was 100 percent lost when I came here in September. I have been trying to show the new kids our favorite places and everything around here the best I can and cannot help but really feel like this is a home for me. And now all of the trip planning begins aaagain. These next few months are going to fly. 

Bavarian dreamin'

So Flannery and I took the train from Salzburg to Munich that Saturday, the 10th, and since we could not check into our kookie but hilarious hostel, Wombat's, we decided to head straight on to our next destination day trip, the Neuschwanstein Castle, a fairytale-esque castle that many romantics believe to be the inspiration for the Disney Castle. It was beyond breathtaking. We took a horse drawn carriage up to the top-- along the way putting our Spanish to good use when we met this sweet old Mexican couple. When we got to the top, all there was left to do was take it the insane snow frosted landscape and imagine ourselves as princesses with impossibly long blond hair flowing from some turret from high in the fortress. 

The next day we took another train to Dachau, one of the first concentration camps built during the WW2 era. It was not one of the places where you make kissy faces and pose with statues, but rather a more somber place where, seeing as it was so still and quite, it seemed as if even nature itself revered the place. It was an afternoon of reflection and learning, and I found myself feeling almost a little ignorant. Sometimes you really have to be in the presence of something to actually feel its impact and significance. 

That night we went to this awweesome beer hall called Augustiner Stuben, one of the Augustiner houses which more or less caters to its more local crowd, making the prices of drinks and its insane Bavarian cuisine totally reasonable. We befriended the waiter, Tommy, who called our menu recommendation from the hostel "total shit" and guided us loyally in the right direction.

The next day we finally stayed in Munich and took advantage of one of those free daily tours from the hostel. It was great. We saw all of the major sites in Munich and learned a crap load of its history as well. I could not even contain myself when the guide mentioned they now sell ladies' underpants in vending machines at the Hofbrauhaus. Why, you ask? I  have no idea. Europe is so weird. We went back and saw Tommy that night. 

I know that we complained a lot about ND being totally lacking in presence during this winter break, but let's face it. Between Switzerland, Italy, Spain, France, England, Austria and Germany I think I can say this break was the best ever. More to come soon. I have been having trouble getting to sleep early, but the good news is Katie is sleeping through the night again for the first time in over a year!

Austrian adventures

Whilst everyone I know has been enjoying the rest of winter break lazing on couches and reading novels and everything else typical of a low key Christmas holiday, Flannery and I have done exactly the opposite, and I would not have had it any other way. I arrived in London the night of the 5th and stayed with her and her sister at their uncle's incredible flat. We spend the next day exploring London- we went to the National Gallery, Tate Museum and Evensong at Westminster Abbey. It was a beautiful (but chilly) day and I realized I really really love London a lot. The people make it all the better. At one point Flannery dropped her wallet on the bus and they paged her to return it. I do not know, for some reason people earn huge brownie points in my book for stuff like that.

We flew to Salzburg the 7th and OMG it is incredible. Such a classically beautiful little city, and so charming. We stayed at this nice hostel called Yoho and had ou r own room for the first two nights. We went on the Sound of Music tour the first day and it was naturally touristy and cheesey but totally awesome. We got a good dose of Salzburg history as well, aaand they took us up to the Austrian countryside as well, which was gorgeous. We went to this great beer hall called Augustiner Brau also, it it was so cool to sit down with our steins and chat the night away alongside other Austrian locals. The next day we went to the Salzburg Museum, and while I am wary of museums and can get easily museumed out, this one was great. It gave a lot of cool history about the people of the city. We also took the elevator up to the top of the city from the Modern Museum, took in an inredible view and got to walk through this charming foresty thing near the fortress and down to the city. Truly one of the greatest Euro city I have been to yet.

schmostel

Yesterday, the last full day in Madrid, I got up like a good little girl and went to mass, which I have, believe it or not, been doing pretty religiously (ha ha) for a while now. It was a pretty mass at a church which I cannot remember the name of right now. Then I went to this kind of depressing World War I art exhibit at the Thyssen Museum. It was free. I hunkered down later and devoured as much as Twilight as possible. I can see now why everyone is so obsessed with it— it is addicting. I went for a long run through the park, as has been my custom and stayed in to Skype and catch up on e-mails and random stuff like that for the night. Then, later, as I was trying to drift pleasantly to sleep, these obnoxious Australian girls checked into the room, turned on all the lights and proceeded to go out for the night. The Amazon twins returned around 5am, reeking of smoke and alcohol. They turned on the lights again and I could not sleep for an hour, but of course they both snored loudly in their deep asleep. It was somehow hot as hell in that room after an hour, they must have turned up the heat. Vengefully I opened the window and when their alarm clock when off at like 8, they both started cavetching about how terribly cold it had gotten. I snickered comfortably from my little cama and rolled back over and slept soundly for another hour and a half. I am glad I am leaving now.

Mad City

Hello from Madrid... still. I have been here the past few days after my family left and believe it or not, it has been a nice and relaxing few days. I have been catching up big time on sleep, reading (buried in Twilight), catching up with friends finally and running— Parque Retiro is my new heaven. I secretly, and maybe this is strange, have always wondered what it would be like to spend a few days by myself in a big city. I definitely do not think I would like to continue forever like this— it's not exactly real life— but it has been nice to slow down and figure things out a little bit. I also have noticed when I am by myself I notice little everyday things on the street I might not have before. Winnie the Pooh (hopefully a street vendor) walking home after a long day's work with some buddies, a Mariachi band striking up a tune on Sol, a fully-dressed clown (scary with a capital S) staring me down from city bus #26, a legless man sitting conspicuously in the middle of Plaza Mayor every single day in the same spot, a gordita double fisting McDonald's ice cream (as Dad would say, too many churros for that one), the same guy dressed as Don Quijote hissing at young children in a cat voice, the same adorable lady selling gerbera daisies in the plaza in front of the hostel I have been in. Which, by the way, has been totally fine. Had you told me several years ago I'd be staying in a hostel by myself in a foreign city, I would have never believed you. It's run by these cutie Argentinian guys and I had the room to myself the first night. Score. 

As nice as these past few days have been physically, it also has been nice to tune out, listen to my music and cry whenever I want to. Sounds sad, I know, but I think a good cry is completely necessary sometimes. It feels good. And I know I am OK because I can say that. I am so stoked to go to London tomorrow.

Griswolds go at it again

From Madrid my family and I drove up north to San Sebastian, which is in País Vasco. It was so beautiful I felt like I was in some other world. We stayed at a really pretty hotel right on the water called Hotel Niza, one my good man Rick had recommended. We hiked up Monte Urgull, a huge park with a castle and huge statue of Jesus. My dad made friends with this really nice guy working at the museum part of the castle. He told us a lot about the area, the language, etc., and made me forget my fears that Vascans are all scary. From the top of the mountain it was the most gorgeous view and when I figure out how to post pictures on this thing, you will believe me. We took a side trip into San Jean d'Luz, France the next day, which was so much fun. Admittedly we spent a lot of time in the car this trip, but I could not be happier with that fact. I miss that family time, even if we are not doing anything. Part of the part about this trip I have loved the most is just wandering through foreign cities with my fam and just catching up.

A few days later we drove down to Segovia and stayed in this gorgeous old monastery-turned hotel right outside the city center. We visited the Alcázar, walked the city and saw the old Roman aquaduct after a cute little lunch in Plaza Mayor. We drove to Toledo that day and stayed at a hotel called AC Ciudad Toledo, which was outside the city walls but had a gorgeous view and nice people working it. After we went to the Tuesday market and I showed my family around the city, we had dinner with my host family that night. I at first was nervous about how it might go— what if for some reason they did not get along? What if I told them the wrong time or something? But it was awesome. I was so grateful Dad speaks Spanish. It made conversation for the entire 2 and a half hour dinner awesome. We all exchanged little gifts afterwards. My family got me this beautiful K necklace and I once again, not because of the gift but just because of spending time with them, realized how great my host family is and how lucky I was to be placed with them. My mom cried a little bit, I think just at the realization that these were good people to genuinely cared and took very good care of her oldest baby. 

The next day, New Years Eve, tons of stuff was closed in the city, including the Cathedral and Alcazár, so we did a little more shopping for Toledo-stuff, including the local sweet Mazapan. That night my dad and I, although registration was already closed, jumped into a huge annual road race, which we thought was a 5K but soon learned from one of my professors we ran into that it actually was an 8.5K, which included a ton of hills. It was a great race, however, and the fans were even better, cheering at every step of the race and playing music. There was even a live drum band at one turn, which was awesome motivation. People were dressed crazy— matadors, 3 Wise Men, transvestites, etc. All and all a hilarious and fun experience. We spent New Year's Eve at the Plaza de Zocodover in Toledo and celebrated like the locals and popped 12 grapes in our mouths at midnight, as is the tradition. There were fireworks, a band, and everything. I showed my family the magic that is Don Simon. We went back soon after midnight, but it was still a blast. 

We went to el Escorial the next day, which of course was closed. It was still impressive and beautiful from the outside, and good to say we saw it. Also glad we did not over-museum the day, which might have been the case with a visit to that huge place. We kept driving on to Madrid for the last night and enjoyed one last tapas-filled night. 

I miss my family so much. I am halfway done, though, and will be seeing them sooner than I think. I always love New Years because it brings the possibility of a clean slate. I am excited a bunch more of my friends to be abroad this semester— many whom I have not seen since last fall. And I have Madrid and Twilight to keep me busy until I meet my friend in London on Monday. 

A very merry Christmas

Yesterday I said goodbye to my family, who had visited for about ten days over the holidays. To be honest, I have not struggled too much with homesickness this semester, with the exception of a few days and Thanksgiving. When they left, however, I realized how much I miss them. And all of my friends. So much. We had stayed at a hotel right in the heart of Madrid for their last night, and when they left I moved my stuff into room my parents had been in so I could sleep for a few more hours. This sounds sappy, but even being in that room was hard. I could almost still feel them there— there was a luggage tag with my dad's name on it, an empty package of bronzer my mom had left on the ground, my dad's lenses cleaner, my sister's shampoo. It made me miss all of them even more, and when I left the hotel I kept seeing things that reminded me of them all over— weird stuff in stores my sisters would laugh at, a slobbering bulldog that reminded me of my dad's ideal pet, little Spanish babies my mom and I would croon over. I am really glad I had yesterday to just chill and work things out. It actually ended up being a great day. I read, caught up with some friends and went on a long run in the beautiful Retiro Park.

Homesickness kind of makes me rethink things... if I have people who love me so much and so much to do back home, why would I stay here for an entire year? I feel like I am being extremely selfish in this way. Spending so much money, missing people who care about me. But then I snap back into it. I remember by I came here for this long. I came here to learn the language, and I am well on my way of doing just that. This has also taught me to trust myself a lot more. I am here in Madrid for three days by myself, and I am A-OK with that. I have things to do, and the rest of the semester holds more for me to do and look forward to. This kind of realization makes me proud of myself in a way and makes me look forward to what's ahead. 

OK but about their visit. I checked into the Hotel Atlántico in Madrid (beautiful) around 11 after schlepping a 32845 pound bag across the city. I hurried to wrap presents and make things special and nice before they arrived about half an hour later. Needless to say, I cried my eyes out. Not because I was sad but more because it was kind of a shock to actually see them. I had been looking forward to seeing them for so long that when the time actually came, it was this huge wave of emotion. They were really jetlagged so after I showed them around the city and we had lunch at this awesome traditional Spanish restaurant, they took a siesta. The next day my parents as usual did not fail to make Christmas so great. They had a little Christmas tree in their room and our favorite Christmas music— the Charlie Brown Christmas album— playing in the background. We opened presents, went for a long walk in the park that day and went out for tapas that night. It was a perfect day, and I have never had a happier Christmas day.